When I make a list of the cities in which I've spent the most time, of course I look at Madrid, where I live, Munich, where I worked for two years, and my hometown of Leon, where I spent many summers. But the city that I've visited the most times is Salzburg. This Austrian gem is a little over an hour's drive from Munich, and I've been here at least eight times. The historic center of Salzburg is one of those places you just have to see, although not everyone is impressed. Some visitors are surprised by its unexpected beauty, while others, with higher expectations, feel let down. It's true that the first time I came here, I was a little disappointed.