"Take the number 28 tram and stroll through Alfama ...", a friend and fellow traveler told me before I left for Lisbon. The truth is I didn't take it because it seemed like more of a touristy route (at 3 euros each, by the way) than something really authentic. I put on comfortable shoes (everyone insisted on the importance of "comfortable shoes" in Lisbon ... exaggerated) and I went up, got out and walked the streets of the Alfama district. It was a marvel. A gem, as the entire city of winding streets, stairs, patios, hanging clothes, beautiful tiles, Portuguese ladies from the neighborhood and hidden bars with coffee for € 0.50.